🔗 Share this article

When assembling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred venues. Yet, tucked high among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying corner of north London.

A Surprise Accolade

This little Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. This recognition has left the family totally astonished.

“I am completely surprised,” states the proprietor, pointing to his family’s relentless work that led to their humble place securing such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has kept much of its original charm. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the cuisine, and this eatery more than delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender texture.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Stars

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for below £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

A Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not train at elite establishments. “I feel truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning beyond its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this gastronomic triumph.